600 / 1000 Starter Rifle

M

mrbeer

Guest
I am looking to start shooting at 600 / 1000 yards. I recently attended my first 1000 yd match and am hooked. I have several questions regarding caliber choice for my first rifle.

Most of the shooters had 2 rifles, one for light gun and one for heavy. Almost everyone was shooting 6BR in the light gun class. Some shot 6BR for heavy gun as well, but others used larger calibers, 6.5-284 and .284.=, 300 WSM, etc.

I can only really afford one rifle at this time. I am debating between 6BR and .284. 6BR has less recoil and reloading is cheaper. However, barrel life is less that .284. I also shoot in a windy area where .284 would be a great advantage. It is my understanding that .284 has a heavy kick, and that muzzle breaks are not allowed in the heavy gun class.

If muzzle breaks were allowed in heavy gun class, I would probably go with .284.

I have the following questions.

1. In your opinions, which caliber would you choose for 600 / 1000 as a new shooter?

2. Also, with regards to accuracy (Excluding wind) which caliber do you find to be inherently more accurate, .284 or 6BR?

3. Other than cost, is there any advantage in either caliber with regards to reloading?

I am not committed to either of the calibers. From reading online, I like both 6BR and .284. However, I would consider other "do it all" calibers. I have been looking at .243 AI, .243 Win, and 7mm Saum.

Any input you all have on the subject would be great.

Thanks
 
Mrbeer,

I'd advise you choose the 6 BR and a no turn neck (0.272") at that. As a first LR cartridge it has everything going for it. It's a great teaching tool because of its low recoil, even without a brake. Without a break it qualifies for light or heavy so you can shoot it for everything with just one load. Its probably more accurate than a 284 and enjoys a long barrel life ( I doubt a 284 lasts longer). Great for 600 yd, very good for 1K. Build it with a 30" barrel and after 2000-2500 rounds re-chamber and go after it again at 27". When you want to invest (time and money) in a specialized 1K rifle I'd suggest a 300 WSM for light and heavy and carry on with the 6BR for 600. There is no faster way to get running than a plain Jane 6BR. I can't tell that tuned necks or a little more capacity buys anything at 600 yd. A no turn neck 6BR is a gun you will never outgrow.

Greg
 
Thank you for the info Greg!

I really believe that 6BR will be easier to shoot as it has less recoil than . How do you feel about a mid way compromise between 6BR and 284. I have been reading about the 243 and 243AI and I like the stats. Do you think that recoil of a 243 would be "beginner prohibitive?" Correct me if I am wrong, but 6BR and 243 both use the same bolt head, so I can shoot both out of the same action if I want to try swapping barrels....is that correct?
 
I have .243 AI, 6BR and 6.5 x 284. I use the 6BR at ranges out to 500 yards, the 6.5 x 284 at 1,000 yards, and the .243 AI at ranges from 100 yards to 1,000 yards. The .243 AI is a switch barrel so that I can use bullets from 62 grains to 105 grains.

All three of these rifles work very well at any range from 100 yds to 1,000 yds with the correct bullet and load. The .243 AI dose not have swignificate recoil. although the 6BR is just a dream to shoot because the recall is nill and barrel life is not an issue.

If you want a rifle that will work well at just about any range out to 1,000 yds, a .243 AI with a 1 in 8 twist barrel is not a bad compromise.

Hope this is helpful to you.

:D
 
mrbeer,

Do a 6BR and be happy.

The 6BR is more accurate, has less or much less recoil, lasts longer and is more forgiving of tune than other choices in 6mm and 7 mm. You might think, How much more recoil could there be and wouldn't it be worth the extra velocity or BC? Well, even a Dasher or BRX has enough additional recoil to matter and the velocity difference amounts to little at the target. The extra recoil affects even seasoned shooters. My 6 BR is much easier to dial in on the clays at Piedmont than my BRX because of the difference in recoil in spite of the fact that the BRX is a pound and a half heavier. The short time of flight at 600 means staying in the scope during recoil is important without a sighter target. Sam Hall uses brakes on his Dasher light guns for that reason but he has dedicated heavy guns as well. Most of us use un-braked light guns in light and heavy class.

Going all the way to a 243 or AI is not a compromise but rather a mistake. Hard to tune, tough on bullets and eats barrels . Some cartridges are science projects. The 6 Br is at the opposite end of the spectrum. It's simple. I've used 6-250 Imp, 6-6.5x54 (6PPC X-long) 243 AI, Dasher and BRX with varying success at 600 and/or 1K. They all work, but the 6BR has won more for me than the rest combined and it's the easiest to work with by far.

Run a simple program for your ammo and put your energy and focus into developing your gun handling. The Dasher and BRX are proven winners as well, but a straight 6 BR is my best advice for a one gun rookie and works for me as well.

The BR and 284 both use a 0.473" bolt face so a switch barrel gun is simple.' The 284 can be used in a short action but a loaded round is too long to eject and requires that the bolt be withdrawn past the bolt stop to remove. A BR can be shot in a long action but it's extra monkey motion when you're trying to be smooth. Not a big deal in either case but simpler with less distraction is better.

Greg
 
I am looking to start shooting at 600 / 1000 yards. I recently attended my first 1000 yd match and am hooked. I have several questions regarding caliber choice for my first rifle.
Click to expand...

Let me be a little irreverent. You won't believe me anyway -- well, you'll say, yes, but . . .

No caliber (6mm, 6.5mm 7mm, .308, or .338) is proven better. No chambering (6 BR to 6/284 to .30/06 to .30/338 Weatherby) is proven better. What wins matches, long range or short, is bullets and barrels. Beyond a well-built rifle, you need both, and they have to "like" each other. Both cost money.

In terms of money, barrels cost a lot more. Assuming you have a reasonable one to start with, you'll get the most out of it by finding the bullets IT (not you) likes with the powder IT (not you) likes.

Of the 6mm and the 7mm bullets, which has the greatest number of choices?

Alternatively, stay with your chosen bullet, and keep trying different barrels until you get one that wins matches. In my neck of the woods, barrels go from $250+, plus the cost of chambering. If you're going the barrel route, you should have your own reamer (another $160 or so).
 
Go to your local gun store, pick up a new Savage in either 6 br or 6.5-284 and you are done......(for now!!!). I see a lot of stock Savage BR and F class guns win 1K relays. And you are in for as low as a grand.

I would go for the 6 br.....STILL MIGHT!!!!!!!!
 
MrBeer
If we knew were you were located maybe someone would let you shoot there rifle and this would help you make your choice.Hard to beat a 6BR.
Waterboy
 
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