1000 yard range through trees

J

JohnsonGunsmith

Guest
how would I go about connecting 2 points through a forested area to build a 1000 yard range the trees and under growth is thick and I can't afford to be off by much or the range will not line up. I have a narrow window geographically to work with and want to cut as few trees as possible. I have A GPS but I do not know how to translate the numerical readings into a straight line. Any common sense sugestions on how to stay straight when cutting trees and not being able to see where you are going. Will land marking both points then cutting towards the other one get me there? just had that idea seems like it would work.
 
If you take your GPS to the target area and "Mark" the spot in the GPS, then go to the bench area and punch in "Go To" the marked target area I assume the GPS would give you a straight line between the two spots. I assume you could rely on the GPS to keep you on that straight line as you go from the bench area to the target area.
 
Use your GPS to make a Waypoint for the beginning and end. Use the GPS to go from one Waypoint to the next. Or by standing at one waypoint tracking to the other, notice the Azimuth (bearing) to next waypoint. You can use a Compass such as this to walk the distance using Surveyors http://www.opticsplanet.net/brunton-compasses-sum-surveymaster.html Tape on land marks in the line of sight. This software works well for checking the distance. http://maptech.mytopo.com/land/terrainnavigator/index.cfm?infopg=buy
Baron
 
JohnsonGunsmith said:
Will land marking both points then cutting towards the other one get me there? .
Click to expand...


Short answer, NO.

This is just a lot harder than it looks.......

Try the GPS thing, And may I suggest to start by setting up the GPS and walking the route fore and back. Take one color ribbon out, another back. Do you hit right on??

If so, break out the brushhog.

al
 
Buy a spool of cheap dacron fishing string and run it out as far as needed/possible.If you come to an obstacle tie something to it and give it a toss or have a bow shooter do it.Take your rifle out and place it in your rest so its very steady.Make sure the string is straight by sighting through your scope along the string and this might require that you tie highly visible plastic ribbon on it.You can now start removing any offensive trees.If the brush is real dense do 50 yards at a time just make sure to drive a stake or two into the ground so you come back to the same points each time.
We shoot across some real bad terrain up here when practicing and a 12 guage with bird shot will remove high branches that would otherwise be impossible to reach.It takes several shots per branch but it sure beats a steep canyon and trying to climb a tree.
Waterboy
P.S.
If your initials are TLJ and you live around Bakersfield I have a 3300 yard spool of Dacron you can have.
 
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Once you find the azimuth from point a to b, use a compass or borrow a transit, and start cutting. You check your work by shooting a "back azimuth" from a distance, back to your starting point. A "back azimuth" is your azimuth, + or - 180 degrees, whichever will give you a number of less than 360 degrees. Maybe you can use your GPS for a compass, I've never had a need for one so I can not say.
 
Just heir a guy with a D8 cat with rippers and tell him to drive it in a straight line for 1000 yards and your all done,
 
Thanks guys I knew I would get some good ideas on here and I appreciate all the help. Sorry Leroy I am a gunsmith living in Texas and I do not have the experiance you have and do not claim to. I can hold my own and have built some accurate guns but I am learning and hope someday to have the following, experiance and good reputation that you have after I have been in the business longer. I will be shooting benchrest soon and will get the chance to meet more of you guys. I am looking forward to learning from all of you and your experiance. Thanks again for all the help guys.
Brandon Johnson
Johnson Gunsmithing
 
Brandon, you dont need to apoligise for anything Lynn was just confusing us because of similar names.
I'm sure you'll do well down there in Texas. How close are you to Beaumont my hunting partner lives down that way and needs a local gunsmith from time to time
Have a great evening.
Leroy Johnson
 
Brandon
I saw the Johnson Gunsmithing and thought you might be Leroy in disguise.I believe he is Johnson Precision Gunsmithing and you are welcome to the spool of dacron as well.If you want to give it a try send me your mailing address were you can pick up a package.

Leroy/Brandon
How busy are you guys? I have a spare rem 700 sitting here along with a 300 Whisper reamer if your interested.I need a 7 or 8 twist barrel put on about 20 inches long and threaded for a 5/8-24 Muzzlebrake and the barrel needs to be 0.775 or smaller at the muzzle.I am open to chrome moly or stainless and nothing special on the action as it will get used to erradicate pigs in a vineyard.I am not in a big hurry I just don't want to wait 4 months or longer and I don't have a barrel on hand.
Lynn aka Waterboy
 
Lynn I could get your job done in about a month after all the parts are here. I will need to look for a barrel in stock since the tightest twist 30 caliber I have in stock is a 1-11. I am not super busy yet but I am also spending a lot of hours in the shop since I am single and have no responsibilities (I live in the shop practically). That way turn around times are better and I get a reputation for being on time. I would love to build it for you and if you want the action trued bolt sleeved etc. I will fix you up. I would love to do the work for you and hope to hear back. Thanks for the offer of the dacron but I think I have the range figured out.
Leroy I am more than willing to talk to your hunting buddy and would love to do some work for him also. Phone number for the shop is 817-396-4325 Johnson Gunsmithing I am Brandon and look forward to hearing from you If I do not answer I am on a machine or with a customer and will return your call just leave a message and #.
 
Thanks Brandon, I'll call you.
Lynn, a .30 cal 1:8 twist will probably be hard to find maybe special order with a long wait.
Right now I'm about 3 months behind.
It sounds like Brandon could get it right out for you if you had the barrel, most of my clients order thier own barrels and parts ahead of time so I can complete their projects in a timely manner.
See you at the Nationals.
Have a good evening.
Leroy Johnson
 
Leroy Johnson said:
Thanks Brandon, I'll call you.
Lynn, a .30 cal 1:8 twist will probably be hard to find maybe special order with a long wait.
Right now I'm about 3 months behind.
It sounds like Brandon could get it right out for you if you had the barrel, most of my clients order thier own barrels and parts ahead of time so I can complete their projects in a timely manner.
See you at the Nationals.
Have a good evening.
Leroy Johnson
Click to expand...

I got a 1:8 30 cal from Douglas Barrels in about 3 weeks. Stan will hook you up.
 
Jeff in OH
Thanks for the heads-up. I'll order one up on tuesday after the holiday.Its going to be a 1 inch rifle at 100 yards on its best days so I don't need any exotic craftsmanship on the action.

Brandon
As soon as I talk with Douglas Barrels I'll give you a call and let you know what they say.
Lynn aka Waterboy
 
For plotting routes through trees, a handheld gps is rarely better than 20 feet either side of your intended route and points. GPS is normally very poor under tree cover.

I've had to position points in thick woodland a few times before selective availability came off GPS.

I used a sighting compass (military style prismatic at that time, I use a suunto now. it is less affected by rain and dust).

First job was to set the difference between grid north and Magnetic north by siting from a known point to a distant known point. Do not trust the figures given on the map, I've found some which were way off both magnetic and GPS alignments. 20 degrees error for one Kenyan map.

After that, mark the firing point and intended backstop position onto as large a scale map as you can get (google earth is a bit dodgy for that. if you can't get a good map, you may be able to get ortho corrected air photos) and measure the bearing between them from grid north.

Start by sighting from one of those points and pick the first tree that is on your line, walk to it, tie a coloured streamer around it and go to the other side of that tree and repeat the process. once you are through the wood, do the same thing the other way and keep repeating until things look right when you come out of the wood each time.

I've had various size excavators and a D9 fell trees. A big gum tree makes one hell of a slap when a D9 knocks it down towards you!
 
Jeff in Ohio
I gave Stan a call on tuesday and the barrel was in stock ready to ship out so it should be here friday.Nice guy to deal with and the whole process took 5 minutes.
Waterboy
 
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