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Al Yes that entire series of videos from Dan is well worth a watch. One other tip is to make sure your grit blaster is fed with clean dry air. Air that has water vapor will also carry oils from the compressor and can contaminate the blasted finish.. Cheers Lee

Trick is to prep they alloy properly. What you really need is to "Key" the surface of the alloy in the area you want to bond.. Belt sanding or similar is a pretty poor "key". By far the best is to grit blast the surfaces with a sharp grit like garnet or something similar (not glass beads!)...

Al, you betcha! It's a massive time saver!! Yet i've almost never heard the "Internet" gunsmith gurus even mention it. It's something i have always done when fitting barrels as it does indeed save a LOT of time dialing one in.. Cheers Lee

Well yes of course, i read Vaughn'd book as well, and without a doubt both you and he are correct about the increase in thread engagement. No doubt that in your specific circumstance, with such a large cartridge, and such a short tenon that having more (or all) of the threads make contact...

Yeah you got me AL.. I was having a little poke at the whole concept but i didn't mean anything by it. :o I've a great deal of respect for the posters in here and i am happy to admit there are folks out there who are way smarter than me and are doing things for reasons i probably don't...

Interesting. I have no doubt that on paper it works.. I remember reading Harrold Vaughns book which had a detailed chapter on thread engagement. However i think "a few tenths" of taper would be lost in the drive train and backlash of most manual lathes.. Add in a bit of uneven wear of the lead...

I know a lot of smiths use plain old 24 Hour Areldite to glue actions in.. It's strong and reasonably runny enough to work well on a pre-bedded stock.. It also breaks down very easily over about 120deg C so is easy to remove.. The bigger question is why glue it in in the first place? For the...

That's very interesting.. Is there any actual data available online on the results? Link? I would be very interested to see it if there is.. Cheers Lee

I don't believe that the type of crown makes any difference at all. They can be flat, recessed, 11 deg etc etc, as long at it is perfectly perpendicular to the last inch or two of the bore, they will work. The only adage to the above is that i don't like "sharp" crowns on center fire rifles...

As a general rule you should have around 0.010" clearance between the bolt nose and the barrel tenon. Head space calculations should allow for this nominal clearance but it wont matter if its a thow or two either side when headspce is set with the nut. Absolutely! A 0.140" over all shoulder...

That's pretty funny as the entire guidance and control systems for Apollo were metric. All of the guidance software for the AGC were programmed using metric figures (because the math was simpler and meant smaller programs). The software engineers then had to apply conversion factors on the...

BINGO! I replied with my thoughts on the threading of the two barrels and how it may have caused the issue.. I guess i am not a "real" enough gunsmith either.. :p I wont bother replying to any more of his threads.. Lee

G'day Gents I did a job recently where i fitted a barrel to a Surgeon 1086 repeater in 7mm WSM. The job went with no issues and i set the counter bore with a generous clearance of around .030". However when i tried to chamber an actual piece of brass, it wouldn't chamber. It was discovered...

I can pretty comfortably do 2 in an 8 hour day. That's complete, from start to finish including disassembly, and re-assembly of the complete rifle and engraving the barrels. If i am really under the pump, and have them already disassembled, i can do three in about 10.5 hours. By the end of...

They don't just seem small, I am pretty sure they are.. I use full form carbide threading inserts for threading and usually turn the tennon to 1.070.. I then just keep taking cuts with the threading tool until the action will screw on.. Only twice in maybe 1000 barrels have I had one gall...

Thanks for the replies fellas.. Gene, that's pretty much what i had in mind, although i think i'd need a few different size tubes to cover all barrel sizes.. Curious, threading the muzzle is a good solution.. The problem i have is that my main barrel supplier here in Australia, supplies...

G'day Gents I am finally going to try to a barrel flushing system for chambering barrels. I have most of the parts needed, Ie high pressure oil pump, tank, filter system, rotary union etc, but was wondering what is the best way to attach the output of the rotary union to the barrel...

G'day Nat Thanks for the reply.. I purchased my kit through Pacific tool and Gauge.. It has "Lambneth - Kiff" on the side so i assumed it was one of yours.. I don't recall getting any registration form with it, but then it was around 5 years ago so who knows. My kit is still in perfect...

G'day Nat I have an original kit purchased through PTG about 4 or 5 years ago. Is it possible to get spare parts for the original kits? Like spare long, short and micrometer collars. Also does the new Small tennon adapter fit the old kits and is it available separately? Cheers Lee

Don There were two separate orders, i have received a refund for one of them, but not the other.. Cheers Lee