Search results

Yes, thanks Jackie for all your posts, and real R&D work, solid engineering, machining and craftsmanship. He/we might be using 1880's tech, but I've seen the end result, awesome accuracy. Thanks also, to the other guys that post Al, yourself, alinwa, dave tooley, Butch, Jerry, and many more. We...

A steering wheel is 1880’s technology, but nobody has come up with anything better. It’s technically perfected. As others have mentioned, it’s not difficult to measure runout of the chamber/throat. I know what my setup capabilities are, and what I end up with. I check my work. I found your video...

Jackie, When you say its not worth much, do you mean it was never a good barrel? or was it shot out? I had a barrel 5-6 years ago with a bow, and I got it to shoot, with some trial and error. Rather start with something better, but it was the hand I was dealt. Ben

Stacking tolerances 3 to 5 thou on custom rifle runout? Not mine pal. put a couple zeroes in front of it.

Dave, I am only marking the shoulder with the parting tool, just enough to remove the layout dye. It gives me a visual, to stop short of. I part the tenon to length, to set the barrel cylinder length and weight. After turning the tenon to dia, I face the the shoulder with a sharp HSS tool to get...

Thanks and good points. 1. I have no issues grinding parting tools, feed rates and cutting speeds for 416 2. I always leave green when parting and face back to get dimensions right. 3. I’m not seeing heat issues, use coolant etc. I just want to see if there is something i'm missing...

I cut off with a bandsaw on the muzzle end, because I’m taking the barrel out anyway, to reindicate the muzzle. But I’m not buying the deformation theory. Even on the muzzle, you face back .100” crowning. Is there any other reason?

Why not use a parting tool to cut barrels, ? Am I the only one doing this?

I turn the tenon .010 short, I grind a right facing tool, with a point that is ~80 degrees (acute), set the compound rest at 90 degrees and plunge into the face 0.010" out from the tenon 0.010" and slowly draw out watching the cut carefully to make sure it's a proper facing. I do the same thing...

Agreed, if the bore is concentric to the outside of the barrel, or uniformly eccentric at muzzle and breech. Unfortunately, thats not what I have seen with most blanks.

You bolt a chuck to it. The TBAS is just an adjustable intermediate between your chuck and headstock. It allows you to indicate a bore using a 3 or 6 jaw. You arguably still need the copper wire, because you can still stress the barrel if the OD and ID are not perfectly concentric. Also, it...

It’s unlikely epoxy would put stress in the barrel, especially over a short distance. We use epoxy (chockfast) to bed large diesel engines, for that reason. This issue I would have with that setup, is getting the bore in the center of all that.

If you compare the readings you get from running a long stylus in there, to fitting a PTG range rod. You will get two different deviations but which represents the bore? The range rod is referencing the lands, and is a "middle man" and the stylus loses resolution due to its length. I could make...

I'm going to try that, I dont think T6061 is tough enough. I've come full circle with my indication, now back to ptg rods for rough in, short stylus after facing off, indicating off the grooves. for final. I'm getting more requests for a .625x24 threaded muzzle, and I'm using just the PTG...

Using copper?

It’s not really a test. I just collected data from my normal checks after threading and cutting the bolt interface. I put the indicator on three times, during barrel work, and once, facing off the action. FWIW, the newer actions, the ones with the bar code, have been spot on. I’m not sure...

I put together a little data after chambering 6 barrels in the past couple weeks. Here is my setup and what I found. 1. Using Iscar tooling, the force on the barrel was moving it a bit in the chuck. Nothing moved more than .002” , but it did move. I ground a tool with HSS and got much less...

What’s your procedure Butch bunghole? Or are you too busy chasing people off this site to get to your shop?

Yes, I call it my “Butch file” Answer the question. Do you practice what you preach? Painstaking jig up 700’s to recut oversized threads? Referencing from what? The crooked bolt raceway? The chop saw face?

Does anyone here actually do that? I mean, on a regular basis? I did it once I think, to tick the box. For clarification, by truing I just put the Hinnant mandrel in the action, between centers, skim the face just enough to remove the chop saw marks. The 15 mins is putting faceplate/centers...