PDA

View Full Version : Heavy 10 Questions



Zebra13
07-10-2016, 01:45 PM
Fellow Heavy 10 owners,

Looking for a little help, here.

I just finished the re-assembly of my Heavy 10 after tearing it apart for cleaning, oiling, new wicks, etc. Everything works as it should, but I have a couple of issues.

1. I have a lot of gear noise. I've adjusted the clearances to minimize it the best I can, but it is still noisy. I noted that my idler gear...the largest diameter gear on the outboard side of the headstock, is a loose fit on the shaft on which it spins. One can easily rock the gear back and forth on the shaft. I'm thinking this may be a cause for all the clacking, but I don't know if it is supposed to be loose like that (I can't imagine it is, but what do I know). Can one of you guys step out and check the fit of your idler gear and let me know what you find?

2. Right now, I'm getting a poor surface finish on my work. The pattern, having seen a similar pattern on another machine, looks like its got a wobble/imbalance somewhere in the drive system, and I've got a vibration in the headstock that I can feel. I saw that my under-mount cone pulley wobbles noticeably when running. I don't think this is the entire problem, though, as the pattern doesn't show up when I feed by hand, as opposed to using the power feed (still not an acceptable finish on the work piece, though). I didn't mess with the under-drive when I tore the machine apart, other than adjusting the tension for a new drive belt. Can somebody give theirs a look and see if you have any noticeable wobble when the machine is running? In the meantime, I'm gonna read up on servicing the under-drive. And by the way, I was using a good, sharp HSS bit with a good pedigree on 12L14 for my test cuts.

I THINK #2 is in my gearbox, but the above wobble may be a contributing factor. As might be a loose idler gear.

Despite the above, and the machine not being leveled, the machine cuts dead-nuts straight...and I mean dead-nuts. Over two inches, it's cutting to the tenth from end-to-end. Of course, I'll level it and it won't cut straight ever again!

Thanks for your help, gents.
Justin

Pete Wass
07-10-2016, 04:00 PM
To not get the gear train too tight. Gears need some space between them to run quietly. Also, a good spray on lube that sticks to the gears helps. Spray on chain lube works. I found some especially for gears @ this industrial supply shop years ago.

Pete

alinwa
07-12-2016, 12:22 AM
Fellow Heavy 10 owners,

Looking for a little help, here.

I just finished the re-assembly of my Heavy 10 after tearing it apart for cleaning, oiling, new wicks, etc. Everything works as it should, but I have a couple of issues.

1. I have a lot of gear noise. I've adjusted the clearances to minimize it the best I can, but it is still noisy. I noted that my idler gear...the largest diameter gear on the outboard side of the headstock, is a loose fit on the shaft on which it spins. One can easily rock the gear back and forth on the shaft. I'm thinking this may be a cause for all the clacking, but I don't know if it is supposed to be loose like that (I can't imagine it is, but what do I know). Can one of you guys step out and check the fit of your idler gear and let me know what you find?

2. Right now, I'm getting a poor surface finish on my work. The pattern, having seen a similar pattern on another machine, looks like its got a wobble/imbalance somewhere in the drive system, and I've got a vibration in the headstock that I can feel. I saw that my under-mount cone pulley wobbles noticeably when running. I don't think this is the entire problem, though, as the pattern doesn't show up when I feed by hand, as opposed to using the power feed (still not an acceptable finish on the work piece, though). I didn't mess with the under-drive when I tore the machine apart, other than adjusting the tension for a new drive belt. Can somebody give theirs a look and see if you have any noticeable wobble when the machine is running? In the meantime, I'm gonna read up on servicing the under-drive. And by the way, I was using a good, sharp HSS bit with a good pedigree on 12L14 for my test cuts.

I THINK #2 is in my gearbox, but the above wobble may be a contributing factor. As might be a loose idler gear.

Despite the above, and the machine not being leveled, the machine cuts dead-nuts straight...and I mean dead-nuts. Over two inches, it's cutting to the tenth from end-to-end. Of course, I'll level it and it won't cut straight ever again!

Thanks for your help, gents.
Justin


OK, first of all, I KNOW NEXT TO NOTHING about these.....I just recently purchased one.

First thing I noticed is, it's quiet. When I got it it was very lightly oiled everywhere inside except the pulley surfaces and as I mentioned, it tinkled :) What I believe this means is that thew gear lash is/was perfect. I've since gummed it all up, the gears, with a sticky blue marine lube and they no longer tinkle. Nor hum, nor make much noise except and endless sticky wshshshshshshsh

There are no loose gears in the assembly.

You need an opinion from Jerry Sharrett or Jay Cutright et al

al

JerrySharrett
07-12-2016, 06:41 AM
Fellow Heavy 10 owners,

Looking for a little help, here.

I just finished the re-assembly of my Heavy 10 after tearing it apart for cleaning, oiling, new wicks, etc. Everything works as it should, but I have a couple of issues.

1. I have a lot of gear noise. I've adjusted the clearances to minimize it the best I can, but it is still noisy. I noted that my idler gear...the largest diameter gear on the outboard side of the headstock, is a loose fit on the shaft on which it spins. One can easily rock the gear back and forth on the shaft. I'm thinking this may be a cause for all the clacking, but I don't know if it is supposed to be loose like that (I can't imagine it is, but what do I know). Can one of you guys step out and check the fit of your idler gear and let me know what you find?

2. Right now, I'm getting a poor surface finish on my work. The pattern, having seen a similar pattern on another machine, looks like its got a wobble/imbalance somewhere in the drive system, and I've got a vibration in the headstock that I can feel. I saw that my under-mount cone pulley wobbles noticeably when running. I don't think this is the entire problem, though, as the pattern doesn't show up when I feed by hand, as opposed to using the power feed (still not an acceptable finish on the work piece, though). I didn't mess with the under-drive when I tore the machine apart, other than adjusting the tension for a new drive belt. Can somebody give theirs a look and see if you have any noticeable wobble when the machine is running? In the meantime, I'm gonna read up on servicing the under-drive. And by the way, I was using a good, sharp HSS bit with a good pedigree on 12L14 for my test cuts.

I THINK #2 is in my gearbox, but the above wobble may be a contributing factor. As might be a loose idler gear.

Despite the above, and the machine not being leveled, the machine cuts dead-nuts straight...and I mean dead-nuts. Over two inches, it's cutting to the tenth from end-to-end. Of course, I'll level it and it won't cut straight ever again!

Thanks for your help, gents.
Justin

Gear noise. If you have gears in mesh pulling a load you WILL have some noise. The amount of noise will depend on the gear type, the gear quality , gear lubrication, gear speed and gear load to name a few. Even hypodial gears like the funny looking gears in an automotive differential will make some noise. AS SUCH, THOUGH, SOME GEAR NOISE WILL NOT EFFECT SURFACE FINISH.

On the SB H10 if you have the back gears engaged you will have some noise. Remember, all gears make noise and spur gears are the worst, and these gears are spur gears. There will be some difference in gear noise of the spindle back gears depending on how their mesh is adjusted-how tight or loose. (Too loose and under a heavy load may fly out of gear.). For years SB recommended various types of oil for the connecting shaft. They later recommendation was to use grease instead of oil. If you unscrew the big oil hole plug you will find a straight thread of about 1/4". Take your oil hole plug to an auto parts store and get a Alemite type fitting with that thread. Use a grease gun and a medium to heavy grease used in automotive applications. SB did,once, recommend a silicon grease. Why? Dunno?? Grease application frequency...probably never again.

On the gearing that propels the feed/thread screw gearbox there is no adjustment. Depending on the RPM you are running you will get varying amounts of noise. After all those are spur gears, the noisiest.

If you have the back gear disengaged, i.e. straight drive, and the feed/thread lever in neutral there should be no gear noise since you have none of the headstock gearing engaged. If you are still getting an excessive noise it is probably coming from the underdrive.

Any irregular surface finish can be caused by material type, material hardness, machinability of the material, improper tool geometry for that application, etc.

As to workpiece straightness, the main consideration in leveling a engine lathe is twist. You can have the machine over on a 45 degree angle and as long as there is no twist in the ways from one end to the other, you should get suitable straightness. Two factors here-tailstock setting and material push-off.


.

Hal
07-12-2016, 09:03 AM
Zebra

I not familiar with your lathe .

Gears don't run loose on shafts and there shouldn't be any wobbles in the drive system.

When setting the backlash in a gear train, .003 is a starting point.

You can use a strip of paper the correct thickness. Measure the paper before and after running between the gears.


For more info on your lathe check on a South Bend forum, like Practial Machinist.


Hal

Zebra13
07-12-2016, 10:17 PM
Gents,

Thank you for the information and advice. You guys rock.

I will use the paper trick to set the clearances on the gears, starting at about .003 and working my way up (more clearance).

My idler gear has the wobblies, and it shouldn't, so I'm thinking it's a bit wallowed out. Either that, or the doo-dad it runs on is worn. I'll check both. If it's the gear, and I have to put a bushing in it, what material would be suitable? Something in the bronze family?

What are you guys running for a lubricant on the gear train?

And when you get a chance, can you look at your under-drive while running and see if it has any noticeable run-out.

Thanks again, fellas...I appreciate it.

Justin