View Full Version : Canjar Remington 700 LP trigger

09-07-2015, 02:21 PM
I'm trying to learn more about the Canjar Remington 700/40X trigger. How is it compared to a Jewell? What are the pros and cons of the Canjar?



James M.
09-07-2015, 04:49 PM
Canjars are okay, but I would recommend that you go with the Jewell. good shooting...James

09-07-2015, 05:10 PM
Canjar no longer makes triggers. So if something happened to the trigger no service. I,m with Mister Mock go with a Jewell or a Timney. The Timney trigger cost less. Just have it installed by a good Gunsmith.


09-13-2015, 01:47 PM
To answer your question ,
The Canjar LP trigger is a very good one. They made 2 types
1 with a lever you cocked in the trigger shoe the other with a thin wire type shoe.
The one with the lever in the shoe adds lock time . The one without the lever is a bit uncomfortable { at least to me} to use.
Both can be set quite low on pull If you have the one with the wire type lever, I suggest that you find a after market trigger shoe for it.
I've use both in the past and both hold up just as well as any other .
Keep it clean like other,s when you clean your rifle and you should have few problems.

brian roberts
09-13-2015, 05:23 PM
on the 40X for varmints. The 'wire type' referred to, uses a curved piece of aluminum rod, maybe 1/8" or so in diameter, and it can be set for ounces; since I don't have a gauge in ounces, I don't know how heavy or how light it'll go, or how heavy mine is.

I DO know I've had NO problems w/it since I got it in '83 and I shoot it numerous times every year.

That said, however, there are a few sensible things to remember. When you clean the rifle, store it w/the muzzle in a cup, or cap, MUZZLE DOWN;
This will keep gunk out of your bedding area, and out of the trigger, too. Too many people use something like Hoppe's No.9 as a lube & preservative over the winter months. Hoppe's is a SOLVENT but it has additives in it that turn to varnish w/age (a winter's worth is enough time). If, after a winter you encounter, upon closing the bolt, that it 'follows down', that is the culprit, and a spray w/non-chlorinated non-ammoniated brake cleaner (BRA-KLEEN in the green can) will alleviate the problem. Remove the barreled action from the stock first.

The LP (Light Pull) has NO SAFETY, and as such requires you to use a dime on the left side of the bolt when its withdrawn, then gently roll it forward between the bolt and receiver wall to remove the bolt. I know this sounds clumsy, but its easier done than said, and you'll quickly get the hang of it.

the other light pull referred to by another poster was actually the single SET trigger, and yes, it does add lock-time. The LP is the same three-lever trigger, it just has the heavy shoe and "Kicker" removed, to keep it from going off accidently. I was able to successfully train myself, from a hunting stand, to load and shoot the trigger w/ski gloves on. Its just a matter of technique, but the muzzle is always in a safe direction, and I'm usually alone.

Some have tried my trigger and said it feels like 2-4 ounces, I don't know; but I DO know I really like it.
Oh yes, the aluminum 'trigger' is adjustable fore and aft and side to side by loosening an allen screw underneath, and I've adjusted mine to a position just to the right of the centerline of the trigger guard, as its just a bit comfier that way, for me.

I also cryoed mine as I have for all my triggers and bolts, as it negates the possibility of "follow down'' on below-zero stands in the winter.

Hope this gives you food for thought, and if you don't want to buy it, let me know. :cool:

Boyd Allen
09-13-2015, 06:39 PM
I have a couple of LPs and the factory direction sheet in a drawer somewhere. I picked them up used and they work just fine. The adjustment range is supposed to be from 2 to 12 oz., this from a single adjustment point on the bottom of the trigger. As for the aluminum wire trigger piece, it has never been an issue, since mine are set very near their lower limits.

09-14-2015, 06:56 PM
Guys, thanks for the info!