View Full Version : Rem 700 Ejector

05-08-2011, 05:14 AM
G'day Folks..

I know this is a BR forum but i've been having an issing with a rem 700 Hunting rifle. It's been chambered in 223 rem and i have been having the usual problem of dented case mouths from the Rem ejector causing the case to cant over on extraction and smack into the receiver wall.
Reducing the ejector spring pressure has helped but it's still denting the mouths and any further reduction will hinder reliable ejection.
So.. Has anyone every tried to convert a rem to a manual ejector, say as used in a Sako L579? This has a slot cut in the inner bolt lug and a matching spring loaded blade in the receiver. This way ejection is not started untill the case is well clear of the port and the ejection force can be set by the operator..


John S
05-08-2011, 03:36 PM
The ejector spring can be reduced to where you can easily push the ejector in with the tip of you finger and still eject the case. I have several 700's set up this way; however they are based on the BR or 300 Savage cases and not the .223.

Dennis Sorensen
05-08-2011, 04:39 PM
Usually 3 coils cut off the original spring works well. Experiment... it only needs to flip it out of the port an inch... not throw it feet... I don't know of any conversion to a manual ejector.

... and the dented neck is a cosmetic problem only...

05-08-2011, 05:33 PM
Remove the ejector for target shooting and put it back in for hunting. This way you only end up with 1 dented case :D

05-09-2011, 07:31 AM
Thanks for the replys guys..

I will look into this a little further and see what i can do with it..


05-09-2011, 11:11 AM
Denting casemouths on ejection sucks...... and I disagree that it's cosmetic only. Dents and dings will quickly ruin competition brass. Even scratches bother me. I won't live with it. I have stuffed a Dremel tool up into new custom actions to relieve metal.

That said, my fix has been to change action mfgrs. I haven't had any luck with clipping springs etc. I too have pondered the efficacy of converting to manual, as has Kelbly's Inc. Only they DID something about it ;)

I'm sorry not to have an answer for the Remington, I mainly replied to let you know that you're not alone.


Dennis Sorensen
05-09-2011, 11:30 AM
If you adjust the spring so low they just fall out of the action... any ding will be cosmetic with a Rem 700 Hunting rifle... annoying undoubtedly but it's won't be as bad as when you step on a case... the hardly visible ding vanishes when you size the case.

Larry Elliott
05-09-2011, 11:18 PM
I've got the ejectors on my Remington and Savage varmint rifles deactivated by shortening the springs enough that the ejector just moves the case head off the bolt face because it's easier to pick a case off the extractor that way. Since I've never been attacked by an enraged, wounded prairie dog it's worked well. For a hunting or target rifle that needs to feed from the magazine and eject it should be as easy as Dennis suggests. Cases don't need to be flung into the next county, just out the ejection port. The speed of bolt operation has something to do with ejection too. If the bolt is operated slowly with a shortened ejector spring the cases may not eject, where they will if the bolt is operated rapidly.

05-18-2011, 11:15 PM
My experience has been that when the spring gets light enough to suit me then it begins to drop the cases while still in the action.


Larry Elliott
05-20-2011, 03:45 PM
I've shortened the ejector spring on my AR so that the cases don't go flying 50 feet, they just sort of pop out of the ejection port and are right there. Shouldn't be a big problem with a 700. I want my hunting rifles to eject the cases (which can be a pain since I hate losing brass), but for live varmint rifles the cases mostly stay under the extractor until plucked out.

Another possibility is remove the ejector spring, measure it and order a lighter spring of the same OD just smaller diameter wire from Brownell's. Cut the spring to the same length as the factory spring, and shorten a coil at a time until it's where it's wanted. Brownell's part number for a set of their light springs is 025-069-000AD in last years catalog and is about $17 plus shipping.