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mike in co
03-13-2011, 06:43 PM
ok a few years back someone gave me a sheet on fine tuning a rem 700 trigger.....and now that i am at that point...i can't find it. i did a search here and did not find it....

so HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPP
this was a set of instruction on how to lighten up the stock trigger for br/single shot shooting.

thaniks
mike in co

Dennis Sorensen
03-14-2011, 01:03 AM
It's is best done by careful polishing of the internals a little and replacing one spring and adjusting... A pound is about as light as you can make it. Replacing the trigger with a 4 ounce Jewell would be a better way to go.

Butch Lambert
03-14-2011, 09:53 AM
OR a Shilen.
Butch from Oklahoma

mike in co
03-14-2011, 10:28 AM
THANKS butch...
but this is my 1000 yd gun on a shoestring...
maybe you could ask your neighbor, arnold, if he has a left hand 700 sitting around i coulld have for this project.

mike in co

cassidy
03-14-2011, 11:09 AM
On RimfireCentral.com if you go to the Remington section there is a sticky on adjusting Rem triggers.

John S
03-14-2011, 06:16 PM
Before working on the trigger, work over the firing pin assembly, polish everything inside and out to make certain noting is dragging.

Also change out the firing pin spring. (Brownells)

The replacement of the trigger spring is very important. Go here: http://www.erniethegunsmith.com/

Best wishes.

Travelor
03-15-2011, 10:54 AM
Remington Trigger Adjustments
14 May 2000
By Paul "Pablito" Coburn

First, the disclaimer
In the U.S.A., we live in a litigious society, and for those of you who live in Rio Linda, that means fools will do really stupid crap, and then sue someone else, because "It's their fault, they made me do it!". For those of you that don't know what you're doing... STAY AWAY FROM TRIGGERS... you can hurt someone (usually someone else!)
Adjusting triggers is something that was once an expected job by the owner of a new gun, just like adjusting the seats in your new car.
But Remington (because of many lawsuits) takes a very dim view of adjusting their triggers... it's number "1" under Remington's "Felony list of no-no's".
Be advised, if you adjust the trigger, and send the gun back to Remington (in the USA) for repairs, they will charge you for a new trigger (they will NOT re-adjust the old one).
.. and finely, your mileage may vary according to road conditions. If you are new at guns, and lack experience to do internal minor repairs and parts replacement... this may not be for you. Do not do the following unless you are skilled enough to work on guns, and responsible enough to handle them safely. I'm presenting this information as "Information Only"... it is SOLELY your decision whether you have the skill and ability to use this information.
If you have an accident, it means that you weren't skilled enough, or responsible enough, so you shouldn't have done the following, so it's not my fault, neither Sniper Country's!

Now on to the details
The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.
You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.
Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...

The three screws are as follows...
On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...
The bottom screw is spring tension...
On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.
First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.
They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.
OK, now down to business.
Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.
Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.
Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.
Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".
Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.
Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.
Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.
Check by:
Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.
Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.
Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.
There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.
These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.

Boyd Allen
03-15-2011, 11:41 AM
Darrell Holland, and a fellow that sells under Ernie the Gunsmith both sell replacement trigger springs that are made of lighter gauge wire. Giving the low cost of these springs, I cannot see the logic of trying to go light with the factory item. What usually happens is that sear engagement and trigger weight adjustments are set to a point that is below what is long term reliable. I can't tell you how many times that I have had someone proudly tell me how light he has adjusted his factory trigger, and that it is fine as long as he does not slam the bolt....idiots!
T

mike in co
03-15-2011, 12:57 PM
thanks guys..i have done the ..".ohhh its so lite ....well most of the time if it cocks at all...." which was why i came back here.

thanks again

mike in co

Dennis Sorensen
03-15-2011, 01:31 PM
One thing I have found that works well it to buff the sears on a soft 400 grit wheel at 1700rpm.. ever so slightly and so briefly like it is your fingernail... and then finish them on a black wheel ever so slightly... it seems to help with the weight and creep.

kansasvet
03-15-2011, 02:20 PM
For other people, I buff the sears with jeweler's rouge and replace the trigger pull spring with a Brownell's. A two pound safe trigger is possible most of the time.
I use a Jewell trigger in my rifles.

Mike Bryant
03-19-2011, 02:49 PM
Darrell Holland, and a fellow that sells under Ernie the Gunsmith both sell replacement trigger springs that are made of lighter gauge wire. Giving the low cost of these springs, I cannot see the logic of trying to go light with the factory item. What usually happens is that sear engagement and trigger weight adjustments are set to a point that is below what is long term reliable. I can't tell you how many times that I have had someone proudly tell me how light he has adjusted his factory trigger, and that it is fine as long as he does not slam the bolt....idiots!
T

I've had no telling how many 700's come into my shop that have been adjusted by the owner removing the compression from the weight of pull spring. A compression spring has to be under compression to do any good. Take all the compression off it by backing the weight of pull screw out too far and then the trigger won't reset reliably or will give inconsistent pull weights. Also, have seen lots and lots of 700 triggers that are gunked up probably with WD-40. It's a wonder they ever work.