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Tom Wayte
02-23-2009, 05:53 PM
What lube is recommended for neck turning brass?
I have a K&M tool but have not used it yet.
Thanks,
Tom:

Pete Wass
02-23-2009, 06:00 PM
Best damn stuff there is!

JDumas
02-23-2009, 06:10 PM
FP-10...no question :D:).



JD

abintx
02-23-2009, 08:09 PM
Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax !!!

virg
02-24-2009, 09:45 AM
What lube is recommended for neck turning brass?
I have a K&M tool but have not used it yet.
Thanks,
Tom:

Tom, any good lubricating oil will do ( 3 in one, Hoppe's, Mobil One, Exxon, etc., etc.) One or two drops on the mandrel for each case will work fine. Wipe the excess off after each case and reapply. After you're done with all the cases, don't forget to wipe out the residue inside the case neck with a cotton swab.;)

Good luck....virg

David Halblom
02-24-2009, 04:21 PM
What lube is recommended for neck turning brass?
I have a K&M tool but have not used it yet.
Thanks,
Tom:

1 qt Mobil 1 mixed w/ 1 can STP. You will find it is SUPER slick and you will not get any brass build up on the mandrel, especially if it is polished. This stuff is also good for doing SERIOUS case forming, such as 30x44's from 308 Lapua or 6-250 shorts from 22-250 brass. Makes a tremendous high pressure lubricant.

Randy J.
02-24-2009, 05:31 PM
I tried each of the above choices based on suggestions from this forum and found that Imperial wax still worked the best for me without all the mess of the oils. I have a shelf full of different mixtures as I wasn't smart enough to mix just a sample before trying. Randy J.

Pete Wass
02-24-2009, 06:03 PM
is fine for cases that don't need much turned off but if one has to cut off A LOT, a light oil is way better, from my experience. Taking heavy cuts heats things up and the oil seems to allow the HEAT. Once one cuts off the thin part of a case and is faced with glomming ( brass seems to move like modlikng clay) a lot of brass off, HEAT is made; quickly. Having been use to using the light oil, I kept using it, even for the light cuts. I tried STP but it is not that good alone.

I don't get excited about the residue. Once the case is fired; no mo residue. One should anneal after turning necks and before fireforming. Annealing will BURN off anything, including the CARBON accumulated from 5 or 6 firings of cases; all one should shoot them BEFORE ANNEALING; or perhaps LESS.

Of course, if one used their machine lathe to turn necks, all of this goes away. I use to do that but my lathe is in an un-heated space and the results suffered. I went for the Hand dealies so I can do em in the house now. Perhaps some day my "Ship" will come in and I will have a Lathe in a WARM environment. Interesting expression, the Ship coming in; had to do with ships NOT coming in but that is another story.

jackie schmidt
02-24-2009, 06:38 PM
While I don't turn necks by hand very often, when I do, I use Imperial Sizing Wax.

But, this is also with a .269 neck, which doesn't take much off..........jackie

Bob Kingsbury
02-28-2009, 06:47 PM
I use the old RCBS case lube on a nylon brush. My neck turner is
about 3lbs all steel, to minimize heat build up. I ream first to uniform
the id and remove some material. The outside cut is only about .0025
per side. Not a hurried process at all. Wall thickness is very uniform
and variations are never more than.0002 at any point across 50 cases.

Randy J.
02-28-2009, 08:36 PM
How much difference in thickness are the 30x47 cases compared to the 30br. I haven't measured my br's after expanding to know how thick they are before turning them. Using wax, I take them down to about .010" thickness in one turning then down to .0096 with a second turning. After fireforming, I usually turn them one last time before using them in a match. I haven't had a problem with heat or chip build-up. I was just wondering if your 30x47 cases start out a lot thicker than the br's. Randy J.

J. Pendergraft
03-01-2009, 06:11 AM
If you use carbide mandrels then you can use Flitz. The inside of your necks will turn out awesome as well. Jim Carstensen originally told me about this and it sure enough works nice. Most people would never consider using a mild abrasive and don't try it without the carbide mandrel because it will wear a non carbide mandrel. Whatever you use for lube, carbide is the way to go for the mandrel. No more worry of brass adhering to the mandrel.

JD Mock
03-01-2009, 06:53 AM
The best that I have found is RCBS case lube. It is definitely better than STP/Mobile 1 and Imperial Wax. I have not tried FP-10. Good shooting. James

M.D.Spencer
03-01-2009, 07:31 AM
ever built a case neck turner with a removable pilot? Is their a concintricity issue?

bob harrison
03-01-2009, 08:00 AM
FP-10 works great
Bob

Pete Wass
03-01-2009, 08:16 AM
How much difference in thickness are the 30x47 cases compared to the 30br. I haven't measured my br's after expanding to know how thick they are before turning them. Using wax, I take them down to about .010" thickness in one turning then down to .0096 with a second turning. After fireforming, I usually turn them one last time before using them in a match. I haven't had a problem with heat or chip build-up. I was just wondering if your 30x47 cases start out a lot thicker than the br's. Randy J.



When one cuts off .308 cases, depending on the brand, there may be as much ( just a guess) .020 to turn off. The 6.5x47 cases necked up end up with thin necks, about like the 6BR's necked up to 30.The neck of the parent case is used vs the area behind the shoulder of a longer case.