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lilguy
01-01-2008, 09:12 PM
My machines are up and running and I have picked my first project. A Ruger #1 in 45/70. I want to rebarrel from the 22 inch sporter barrel to a 30 inch heavy barrel for long range target and some hunting with vintage sights.
What tooling will I need. A CM barrel runs under 3 bills. What cutters and gages will I need and where is the best place to get the tools.Thanks.

flatlander
01-01-2008, 11:08 PM
You've picked one of the harder actions to rebarrel to start out with. Ruger's single shots have the forearm hanger cast integral with the receiver, which - since it protrudes several inches from the front of the action - precludes being able to use the receiver as a thread gauge while you're cutting threads on the barrel. You'll need a set of thread wires or triangles and a 1"-2" outside micrometer to measure the threads of the take-off barrel and then cut the new barrel's threads to match. There's also an extractor/ejector slot to cut in the barrel's threaded tenon.

I'd suggest you either find yourself a mentor who has experience with this type of work, or choose a bolt rifle for your first barreling project. Please don't take this as a knock on your ability - I'm just pointing out some of the difficulties rebarreling a Ruger SS presents.

lilguy
01-01-2008, 11:32 PM
No offence taken. appreciate the insight.

Bill Leeper
01-02-2008, 01:13 AM
Thread between centers; then you can check your thread with the action. The aforementioned forearm hanger limits diameter at the breech to 1.150 or so.
Order your reamer and headspace gauge from Pacific Tool and Gauge or from Brownells. The Number One is a bit more difficult than the usual bolt action. It features a semi-complex extractor cut. Just copy the factory cut. It can be done with files but you have to want to do it. I use a milling attachment on the lathe for most extractor cuts. Regards, Bill.

Cowboy4
01-02-2008, 06:45 AM
Lilguy,
I've been contemplating a similar project on a Number 1 7x57. What were, if you don't mind sharing, your ideas on the trigger? Were you planning to make a new fore arm or use a Ruger beaver tail?

RJM
01-02-2008, 07:39 AM
lilguy,
The last gun I finished is a #1 barreled to 270. Just to amplify what Bill said, the main PITA is the extractor cut.

I roughed it in with the milling attachment on the lathe like he said. The factory cut is quite sloppy compared to what is really necessary. So I finished it in with files after roughing on the lathe. In hindsight, I'd rather just copy the sloppy factory cut to save time.

My standard procedure is to thread between centers. With a steady rest supporting the barrel back far enough to clear the receiver extension, you can back out the live center & use the receiver as a thread gauge. After that is right, cut the threaded shank to the right length so the breech block can operate with the extractor stripped out. Then install the extractor on the screw, ink the barrel, & scribe the position of the needed extractor cuts. No matter how you do the cuts, it will take a whole bunch of trial & error to get the extractor functioning properly.

The other thing I can comment on is the receiver extension. It doesn't just limit the barrel diameter at the breech. It also limits the taper of the barrel you can use. With the one I have, a #5 taper was the heaviest blank I could get on, & then I had to file some to get it to fit. i would think there must be different extensions for different size barrels. I have yet to check my sporter #1 against my Lyman centennial #1 to see if they're different.

After all this, you might want to work on a Remington 700 first - much easier.

Regards, Ron

Chisolm
01-02-2008, 04:11 PM
lilguy,
No matter how you do the cuts, it will take a whole bunch of trial & error to get the extractor functioning properly.

And you will get very good at assembling/disassembling the Ruger #1 action.:D
When I rebarreled mine I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff disk to machine out the extractor cut in the barrel. I would think that if you milled it out on a lathe with mill attachment or a mill and matched the factory extractor it wouldn't require any additional fitting, anyway that is how I planned to do it if I do another. The Dremel does work better than you would think though.
Make sure you get the barrel good and tight (clocked to where it will be when finished) before marking for the extractor cut or you could end up with the cut off index when you do tighten it after cutting the extractor.
James

lilguy
01-03-2008, 01:04 PM
Thanks all, I will start out with something a bit less complicated. I have a 40x I purchased 35 years ago. Its chambered in 7.62 NATO, could I rechamber in 308? What tools would I need to accomplish this , if doable?